The Cartier Tank is over 100 years old and is still one of the most recognisable watch designs ever made. It was inspired by the top view of the First World War Tanks, where the tracks ran around the body of the vehicle, and during an age where machines were inspiring design everywhere through design movement including Cubism, Bauhaus and de Stijl. When it was first designed in 1919, the simple design followed Louis Cartier’s design codes from his earlier wristwatches; the railway-style minute tracking, Roman numerals, blue steel hands, the cabochon winding crown and, Cartier’s own invention, the deployment buckle. It was also at this time that Edmond Jaeger designed the movements, which were made by LeCoultre. In the 50 years since the first Cartier Tank was sold, only 6,000 were ever produced (6 were produced in the first year and 33 in the second), making Tanks from this age incredibly rare.


It wasn’t until 1976 that the in-house Must de Cartier Tank was launched, the first product in the in-house Must line. These Tanks were made of vermeil, or silver gilt, which is gold-plated sterling silver. This made the new line more affordable whilst still having the prestige of being made from a precious metal. Various sizes, dial colours and finishes were then produced for both men and women. The Must de Cartier line was faded out at the beginning of the 21st century.

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