Here we have a wonderfully characterful late-1960s Swiss Emperor manual-winding chronograph, combining two of the great watch styles of the period – the rotating-bezel diver and the motor-racing chronograph – in one seriously purposeful stainless-steel watch.
The first thing that grabs you is undoubtedly the dial. Originally a very dark charcoal/black finish, more than half a century of exposure to light and the natural ageing of the original dial coating has given it an extraordinary colour shift. Viewed straight on it can appear almost black or graphite grey, yet move it into stronger or more directional light and warm chocolate, tobacco and bronze tones begin to emerge. This is genuine age rather than something artificially created, and the different photographs show just how much the personality of the dial changes depending on the angle and lighting.

Against this dark background sit two contrasting silver subsidiary dials with concentric detailing – running seconds and the chronograph minute register – while the bright red centre chronograph hand supplies just enough colour. The chunky applied baton markers and substantial luminous-filled hour and minute hands give the watch its unmistakably late-1960s sporting character. Around everything is an almost ridiculously detailed collection of timing scales; the dial is busy, technical and very much of its period, but somehow it works.
The external black rotating bezel provides the diving element, with bold white numerals, minute markings and its aged luminous pip at 12. The bezel has plenty of honest wear around its outer edge, which we have deliberately left alone. It matches the rest of the watch beautifully and gives the whole thing the look of an instrument that has actually had a life rather than spent fifty years in a safe.

The stainless-steel cushion case is another highlight. Its broad shoulders, short integrated-style lugs, large winding crown and substantial rectangular chronograph pushers give it enormous wrist presence without the dimensions becoming silly. The case back is marked stainless steel, Swiss made, anti-magnetic and with its original 20 ATM water-resistance designation. A surviving example of this Swiss Emperor diver-chronograph design is also recorded with a 20-atmosphere rating, equivalent when new to approximately 200 metres. Naturally, we make absolutely no suggestion that a watch of this age remains suitable for use in water today. Watches of Bath
Inside is the manually wound, 17-jewel Valjoux chronograph movement. The Valjoux 7730-series was one of the great workhorse chronograph families of this era, with the 7733 and date-equipped 7734 appearing from around 1969 and being used by an enormous range of manufacturers. These were proper mechanical chronographs built to be used, serviced and repaired rather than disposable movements, running at 18,000 vibrations per hour with approximately 45 hours of power reserve. OTTUHR
We have fitted the watch to a dark brown perforated racing-style leather strap which suits it perfectly, picking up the warmer tones within that extraordinary ageing dial while keeping the period sporting look.

Extra Points 

Swiss Emperor is one of those brands that makes vintage watches interesting. It isn't a modern resurrected name with a carefully manufactured backstory – it was a genuine Swiss trademark operating within the enormous mid-century Swiss watch industry.
Research into the marque records the Swiss Emperor name as having been registered in Switzerland in 1959 by Kenroy Trading, an import-export concern based in Neuchâtel. The trademark subsequently passed to E. Gunzinger & Cie in 1965. Interestingly for British collectors, Swiss Emperor watches appeared in Littlewoods catalogues from the early 1960s onwards, giving the marque a genuine connection with the UK market. WatchTender
Like many good smaller Swiss names of the period, Swiss Emperor did not need to manufacture every component itself. Instead, watches could be built around excellent specialist Swiss movements from companies such as Valjoux, Landeron, ETA and A. Schild. Surviving Swiss Emperor watches range from conventional dress pieces through divers and some remarkably serious chronographs. That is part of the attraction: beneath a relatively little-known name you can find exactly the same type of Swiss engineering being used by much more famous manufacturers.
The Valjoux 7733/7734 family is a perfect example. The movement developed from the Venus 188 architecture after Valjoux acquired Venus, and became one of the important mass-produced cam-operated mechanical chronographs of the late 1960s and 1970s. The no-date 7733 and date-equipped 7734 share the same basic architecture and were used widely across the Swiss industry. OTTUHR
There is also something we like about a watch such as this sitting beside a Heuer, Breitling, Omega or similar period chronograph. The famous name may be missing from the dial, but much of the mechanical engineering, case construction and wonderfully experimental late-1960s styling is still there – normally at a very different price.
The watch comes fully serviced by our on-site workshop and with our 12 months, non-waterproof service cover.

Spec Stuff