There are some watches that stop you mid-scroll, and this 1941 Longines is absolutely one of them. Housed in a solid 9ct gold English-made cushion case, it has that wonderfully warm, slightly richer tone you only really get with vintage gold that’s had eight decades to mellow. The shape is spot on too – a proper early cushion profile with soft shoulders and a smooth, rounded presence on the wrist that feels both period-correct and surprisingly modern.
The real headline, though, is the dial. A fabulous enamel / porcelain military-style dial with painted luminous compound numerals and matching luminous hands – and it’s still in remarkably good order. Enamel dials have a particular “depth” that photographs never fully capture; it’s cleaner and more glass-like than a painted metal dial, and the bold Arabic layout gives it that purposeful, instrument-like clarity associated with wartime and service pieces.
There’s a reason luminous numerals and hands were such a big deal for forces-issued and military-adjacent watches of the era. In blackout conditions, tents, vehicles, aircraft cabins, ship interiors, or simply a darkened street, instant legibility mattered. You didn’t want to hunt for the time – you wanted to glance and know. Watches like this were designed to be read quickly, under pressure, often at night, and that functional DNA is exactly what makes them so attractive now.
What makes this example especially appealing is that the luminous compound has survived. On many watches from this period the luminous paint can dry out, craze, crumble away, or leave the dial looking tired and patchy. Here, it presents far better than you’d expect for 1941 – a testament to gentle life and long, careful storage.
An important note (and a lovely bit of romance): this watch has reportedly been in a drawer and unused for many years. As a result, it has that “time capsule” feel – but with enamel and vintage luminous paint, the best thing you can do is actually give it occasional wear. Regular, careful use helps keep seals, oils, and components from sitting completely dormant, and it also encourages the watch to live the life it was built for. With dials like this, the goal is preservation through sensible enjoyment: wear it, don’t abuse it, and definitely avoid knocks, moisture, and sudden temperature changes.
Founded in 1832, Longines has a rich and exciting history. The company produced their first movement, the 20A, in 1867 near the Swiss town of Saint-Imier, in a place called Es Longines ("long meadows"). This movement won an award at the Exhibition Universelle in Paris in the same year. Longines are credited with advancing the industrialisation of Swiss watchmaking and it because of their new mechanical procedures, they were able to produce a simple chronograph movement, the 20H, as early as 1878. It was the first mechanism that Longines had made that could be used for precise timing and it was so popular with horse racing bettors and spectators that by the end of 1886, Longines were supplying chronographs to the majority of New York's sports officials. It is still the official timekeeper of many horse races, with over 40 in its annual calendar.
The Longines brand name and logo were officially registered with the United International Bureaux for the Protection of Intellectual Property (later the WIPO) in 1889. Longines is the oldest brand name registered with the WIPO that is unchanged and still in use today. Longines is now part of the Swatch Group, having joined in 1983.
This watch comes fully serviced by our on-site workshop and with a 12 month, non-waterproof service cover.
What we think
This is a highly collectable watch with so many original features. It is a rare and early example of a classic design and just look at that stunning Enamelled dial . Longines were ahead of the time in the watchmaking world and the famous in house caliber 12.68 in our opinion on of the best calibers in its field. Everyone needs a cushion watch in the collection,
This is one of those watches that feels like it’s been lifted straight from a 1940s photograph – the kind of piece you can imagine on the wrist of an officer, an engineer, or anyone who needed a reliable timekeeper that could be read instantly in low light. The cushion case in gold gives it just enough elegance to wear today without feeling like a costume piece, while that enamel dial keeps it grounded in pure utility.
And honestly, it’s the combination that makes it: Longines quality, a rare English 9ct gold case, and a porcelain military dial with luminous paint that hasn’t fallen apart. You don’t see that trio come together very often. It’s the sort of watch that looks just as good with a chunky knit and boots as it does peeking from a shirt cuff – understated, historic, and properly special.
Spec Stuff
Serial : 620#### (1941)
Reference : 72169
Movement : Manual Wind Longines 12.68z 15 Jewels ADJ 5 Pos Age : 1941/1950 Specific Age : 1941 - Serial and hallmark confirm 1941 Case Size : 30mm X30mm Case Thickness : 10mm Lug to Lug :34mm Lugs :18mm Condition : Pre-Owned Box & Papers : No Case Material : 9ct Gold Service History : 12-Months NON-Waterproof Warranty
1941 Classic Military style Longines solid 9ct gold cushion Watch with rare Enamel Dial and Arabic Numerals
