Here we have a very unusual and rather fascinating 1940s Universal Genève wristwatch, reference 31250, fitted with the manual wind Universal Genève calibre 262 movement. These small black-dial Universal Genève watches are commonly known among collectors as the “Wilhelmina”, due to the crowned “W” emblem printed beneath the Universal Genève name on the dial. The traditional story links this symbol to Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands and to watches supplied for Dutch military use around the Second World War period. More recent research has also suggested another possible explanation: that the crowned W may instead relate to the German trading house Gebr. Webendörfer, whose crowned W trade mark appears in period horological records. Either way, the result is a properly intriguing little wartime-era Universal Genève with a story that is still discussed among collectors.
The watch itself has a compact 30mm case, but it has far more presence than the measurement suggests. The black dial, white Arabic numerals, small seconds layout and fixed bar military-style case give it that purposeful wartime character that collectors love. The dial is particularly appealing, with large luminous Arabic numerals, matching luminous plots around the outside, and elegant leaf-style hands with aged luminous compound. The small seconds register at 6 o’clock balances the dial beautifully, while the printed Universal Genève signature and crowned W emblem add the real talking point.
The case shows honest age and wear, as you would expect from a watch of this type and period. These were not luxury dress watches made to sit in a drawer; they were practical, robust, compact wristwatches designed around use and readability. The fixed bars mean it is best suited to an open-ended or pass-through military-style strap, which is exactly the right look for it. The crown is neatly proportioned, the acrylic crystal suits the period, and the overall feel is very much of a proper 1940s field watch.
Inside is Universal Genève’s calibre 262, a manually wound in-house movement. Universal Genève are best remembered by many collectors for their Compax chronographs and later Polerouter models, but pieces like this show another side of the company: simple, practical, well-made wristwatches with real period charm.
Universal Genève was founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch by two Horology students, Ulysse-Georges Perret and Numa-Emile Descombes. By 1919, they had moved their operations to Geneva and renamed the brand Universal Genève. They have been owned by Stelux, a Hong Kong investment group, since 1989. In December of 2023, it was announced that The Partners Group, a private equity firm that owns a majority stake in Breitling, is planning to acquire the Swiss luxury watch brand Universal Genève from Stelux Holdings. This Hong Kong-based holding company has been the brand's custodian since 1989. Over the years, Universal Genève has struggled to gain investment and marketing direction under Stelux Holdings, leading the brand to fall behind its competitors in the luxury watch market. However, The Partners Group's acquisition is expected to change that. The move is largely driven by Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling, who has expressed his desire to bring back the historical brand and help it regain its former glory. Kern has successfully turned around the fortunes of Breitling since he took over in 2017, and he is expected to apply the same strategy to Universal Genève. The acquisition comes at a time when there is increased interest in vintage watches, particularly those made by Universal Genève. The brand's vintage timepieces have been fetching record prices at auctions, indicating a renewed interest in the brand. With the cash infusion from The Partners Group, Universal Genève is expected to launch new models and expand its product line to cater to the growing demand for luxury vintage watches. The market is receptive to the brand's new offerings, and the acquisition is seen as a positive step towards reviving Universal Genève's reputation as a leading luxury watch brand.
What we think
This is exactly the sort of watch we love: small on paper, big on character, and packed with unanswered questions. The size is very 1940s, but the look is fantastic. On the right strap it has that proper utilitarian military feel, and the black dial gives it far more punch than a plain silver-dial dress watch of the same period.
The appeal here is not just the Universal Genève name, although that certainly helps. It is the combination of the black dial, the fixed bar case, the calibre 262 movement, the compact wartime proportions and that mysterious crowned W emblem. Whether you prefer the Queen Wilhelmina Dutch Army story or the later Webendörfer theory, the watch remains a genuinely collectable and historically interesting Universal Genève.
We would avoid over-restoring a watch like this. The charm is in the honest ageing: the dial surface, the old luminous material, the case wear and the feeling that it has lived a life. It is not trying to be a showroom-fresh object. It is a small, purposeful, wartime-era Swiss wristwatch with a story, and that is exactly why it is special.
We have fitted a perfectly fitting 16mm Canvas strap by our friends at HAVESTON - Check them out HERE
For someone who collects military watches, black-dial Universal Genève pieces, or simply likes watches with a bit of unresolved history, this is a really appealing find. It is the kind of watch that leads to a conversation every time you show it to someone who knows vintage watches.
Spec Stuff
Serial : 88****
Reference : 31250
Movement : Manually Wound UG Cal. 262 Age :1940/1959 Specific Age :1941 Case Size : 30mm (Note this is a smaller watch) Case Thickness : 9.5mm Lug to Lug : 36.5mm Lugs : 16mm Condition : Pre-Owned Box & Papers : No Case Material : Chrome and steel Service History : 12-Months NON-Waterproof service cover
